April 2001

Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers SocietyNewsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society

Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society

January 2003January 2003

January 2003

IPMS/Republic of Texas

(continued on page 10)

SPRUE EXAMINER

The Grumman F7F-3N Tigercat

"Bondo" Phil Brandt, IPMS 14091

Background

Bondo loves black airplanes! Especially

weathered, dirty airframes with exhaust residue

all over the place. The hectic early days of the

Korean conflict produced just such a combination

when VMF(N)-513 cloaked their powerful F7F-

3N nightfighters in just such a color scheme,

operating from PSP matting, with dirt blowing

in all directions. The Tigercat profile and

planform have always attracted this non-navy

troop. The slim fuselage and humongous recip

engine nacelles are purposeful and ‘mean’, a

proper nightfighter look, in my estimation.

The Model

Well before AMT released their definitive 1/48

injected kit, I had purchased the quite decent

Classic Castings all-resin kit which provided

parts for all versions. I didn't start the kit right

away, and the project was overcome by events,

namely AMT's release. Initially AMT released

only the F7F-3, so I converted the basic fighter

to the -3N. In retrospect, this turned out to be a

good decision because the later release of the

AMT -3N had an undersized forward fuselage/

radome.

Fuselage

The entire AMT fuselage forward of the

windscreen was replaced by the correctly

proportioned Classic Castings -3N resin version.

This monolithic resin chunk also helped move

the CG forward, but I still had to anchor the

nosewheel to the base. Turns out that in real life

the Tigercat at rest would sometimes tilt back on

its tail if the fuel tanks were not adequately

filled, and there are pics to prove it!

Cockpits

The aft cockpit was cut out and interior detail—

Cutting edge had not yet done their very nice

Tigercat cockpit sets—from the Classic Castings

kit added to both cockpits. The aft canopy is the

vacuformed one, also from the Classic kit.

Yellow tapered rod antennas were added per

closeup pics of the real thing. Note that the

Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society2

Austin Scale Modelers Society (ASMS) is affiliated with the International Plastic Modeler’s Society (IPMS) as the Republic of Texas Chapter.

ASMS meets the third Thursday of each month except December. Dues for full membership are $20.00 yearly. Subscription to the newsletter Sprue

Confessions is $15 yearly. For more information on meeting times and location, call Milton Bell at (512) 454-2395. The views expressed in this

newsletter are those of the authors. The Austin Scale Modelers Society does not endorse the contents of any article.

ASMS Officers for 2002ASMS Officers for 2002

ASMS Officers for 2002

Jarrod CunninghamJarrod Cunningham

Jarrod Cunningham,

president, [email protected] 292-3639

Kenny RoadyKenny Roady

Kenny Roady,

vice president, [email protected] 260-2907

David RanneyDavid Ranney

David Ranney,

secretary, [email protected] 990-9699

Dave Orloff.Dave Orloff.

Dave Orloff.

treasurer, [email protected] 989-2795

Milton BellMilton Bell

Milton Bell,

editor, [email protected] 454-2395

Austin Model Show CoordinatorsAustin Model Show Coordinators

Austin Model Show Coordinators

Tim VogtTim Vogt

Tim Vogt 447-2668

Bruce Burden, Bruce Burden,

Bruce Burden, webmaster 250-9424

Web SiteWeb Site

Web Site www.kithobbyist.com/ASMS/

Ken LarondeKen Laronde

Ken Laronde (Vendor Liason) 288-2137

Our Sponsors

These are some of the individuals and

organizations which help make Austin

Scale Modelers Society possible.

ing’s Hobby Shoping’s Hobby Shop

ing’s Hobby Shop

8810 N. Lamar, Austin TX 78753

Phone 836-7388

The Village Hobby ShopThe Village Hobby Shop

The Village Hobby Shop

2700 W. Anderson Lane, #801

Phone (512) 452-6401

Roger WilliamsRoger Williams

Roger Williams

PO Box 291

Pflugerville, TX 78691-0291

Rudy ClineRudy Cline

Rudy Cline

Bruce ArboBruce Arbo

Bruce Arbo

Ray KatzamanRay Katzaman

Ray Katzaman

A K Young & AssociatesA K Young & Associates

A K Young & Associates

Squadron Mail OrderSquadron Mail Order

Squadron Mail Order

1115 Crowley Drive

Carrollton, TX 75011

Action Traffic ServicesAction Traffic Services

Action Traffic Services

11012 Georgian Dr.

Austin, TX 78753

MB Publishing & PhotographyMB Publishing & Photography

MB Publishing & Photography

7509 St. Phillip, Austin, TX 78757,

Phone 454-2395

Dave EdgerlyDave Edgerly

Dave Edgerly

Commander Series ModelsCommander Series Models

Commander Series Models

Ian EdgerlyIan Edgerly

Ian Edgerly

Texas Military Forces MuseumTexas Military Forces Museum

Texas Military Forces Museum

Pat LowePat Lowe

Pat Lowe

Testors CorporationTestors Corporation

Testors Corporation

Bob KierasBob Kieras

Bob Kieras

SD&DSD&D

SD&D

Roll ModelsRoll Models

Roll Models

P.O. Box 27066P.O. Box 27066

P.O. Box 27066

Golden valley, MN 55427Golden valley, MN 55427

Golden valley, MN 55427

From the Editor...From the Editor...

From the Editor...

CALMEX 17, Lake Charles LA Jan. 19, 2003

ModelFiesta XXII, Live Oak Civic Center March 8, 2003

MetroPlex Car Model Club March 22, 2003

IPMS/Central Arkansas Scale Modelers, Little Rock AR May 2-4, 2003

NCT ScaleFest, Mesquite Rodeo Center May 24, 2003

IPMS National Convention, Oklahoma City OK July 2-5, 2003

SuperCon, Fort Worth (Arlington) August 9, 2003

West Central Missouri Sept. 20, 2003

GASCON IV, Greater Abilene Scale Modelers, Abilene TX Oct. 11, 2003

Show ScheduleShow Schedule

Show Schedule

OK, Gang ! Time for a new start on a brand new year. I hope you all had a great Christmas

season and found just what you wanted in your stocking. Now it’s back to work and

modeling in 2003. First off, you may have noticed a name change on the cover of your

newsletter. I decided that Confessions had worn a bit thin so it’s now the Sprue Examiner.

Sort of an old “newspaper” kind of name and probably describes better what the

newsletter does—it examines new and old kits and all aspects of the hobby.

The first big item for the club in 2003 is elections and that’s the main thing to occupy us

at our January meeting which will be on Thursday the 16th at the Yarborough Branch

Library on Hancock. Jarrod has said that he doesn’t want to seek reelection so we have

to find a replacement who will be willing to serve the two year term. I’ve not spoken to

the other offices but generally, the elections are open to any who want to serve and who

are nominated. A word of caution. While it’s best to be present to accept or decline the

nomination, we have been known to elect some poor soul who chooses to be absent on

election night. I suggest strongly that you attend if possible.

If you missed it, the December meeting appeared to be a smash hit. I’m referring to the

Christmas Party at our place. My house isn’t the largest by any stretch of the imagination

but by last count, forty-plus ASMS members and spouses or family showed up for a great

evening of fellowship, fun, and food. Martha and I were happy to be hosts again and I

have to say that she had as much fun as I did. It was a blast and thank you all for coming.

Milton

3Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society

Styrene Six

Jarrod Cunningham

“Returning To Base”

Well another year has passed, and the stack grows with each

Hobby Lobby sale and the like. I wish all of you a “Happy New

Year” albeit three weeks post hence. I hope that the holidays

were all good to you and yours as well. Santa did leave me some

plastic, but once again the “clothing thing” won out in my

household. With the release of some really good kits, it’s hard to

say no these days—for me anyway.

With the beginning of this year, we have some important

business to attend to at our next meeting. The current

administration’s tenure is up and this means that we need to elect

or re-elect club officers. This is an important task. A club is only

as good as its members, and as effective as its officers. No matter

how good the club members are, without leadership and

accountability not much gets accomplished. I have faith that you

all understand this and will consider this when voting.

Regretfully, I will not be seeking re-election. I have decided that

for me the hobby would mean more if I spent more time at the

bench. Do not misinterpret this as dissatisfaction with my

tenure—I was honored and privileged to serve you all as president

and I would like to think my actions were satisfactory and

adequate for all. In the past two years we have seen some

changes. Some pleasant; some not so. I hope you all have been

served well by Kenny, the “two Dave’s”, and myself. I know that

I owe a great deal to all of my fellow officers for their efforts and

contributions. I would like to express my appreciation to them

all. I believe that they have also represented the club very well

for the past two years. Thanks also to the members who have

acted as “sounding boards” for me in the past. To those who gave

me advice; THANK YOU. Do not be mistaken; I am not

resigning the club—just stepping down. I will still strive to be an

active member, and assist if asked.

I hope all of you who attended the Christmas party enjoyed

yourselves. I know I did. I didn’t know that one kit could find so

many different owners within a space of fifteen minutes! I know

a couple of them sure did! In the end, the kits all found new

homes. It will be interesting to see what you all do with them. In

case you forgot, the next quarterly contest will be made up

EXCLUSIVELY of these kits. With what was available, the

results should be “intriguing” to say the least. Personally, I am

trying to come to grips with a Lindberg “Gladiator” WITHOUT

the “extra cheese,” i.e. photo-etch or resin (well…maybe a little

resin, what was I thinking). I figure it’s therapy anyway. Call it

“old school” if you like. Talk about a task! I find myself using

things and ideas I haven’t tried in years! Oh well...Humility 101

I guess.

I hope to see all at the next meeting, the more the merrier!

Jarrod

Oh great, Just what I wanted. Right!

Carl picks another piece of armor. How did he do that?

“C’mon Drew, wouldn’t you rather have this great submarine

model. And look, there’s some pieces of green paper to go with

it!”

The politically uncorrect Gift Exchange was a big hit and took

some time to get finished. Everyone had a chance to select a gift

from the unwrapped stack or take a previously unwapped

“treasure” from a fellow modeler. And we have to build them

by the March quarterly contest!

Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society4

Skip’sSkip’s

Skip’s

CARCAR

CAR

CORNERCORNER

CORNER

by Skip Perrine

IPMS 40167

This month’s kit is the Revell Acura Integra Type R— “R” for

racing. This is the car that was the star in a recent movie about

street racing called The Fast and The Furious. It is also a popular

car on the Euro-sedan and coupe racing circuits. It has also been

described as a fabulous sports car. That’s what makes the Integra

tick and what has everybody so excited—its versatility and

“handling,”—that’s the key word “handling”—especially on the

twisty, country roads that sports car owners love. The rigid

chassis, along with precise steering and well-tuned suspension

combine to give excellent stability and balance.

The Integra has also taken on a whole new life as the car of choice

for the custom and high performance crowd. A sheer delight to

drive, nice to look at and fun to own, the Acura Integra is a car

in its own class.

My Revell kit may be built one of two ways, and with the right

sponsor decals, can be built as a Hot Hatch Euro Sedan racer.

Included in this very fine kit are four complete sets of wheels for

the discerning racer, two different front air dams, three rear

spoilers with one being a Euro Sedan style rear wing, and two

different styles of silk-screened custom decals.

To this reviewer, the kit looks like could be from Fujimi with the

chassis molded in one color, the interior in another color. The

body was separately bagged to protect it from tire smudge and

other problems that happen with opened bodies in kits.

The kit is molded in white, gray, light gull gray, flat black, dark

gray, clear, red transparent and chrome. The way this kit is

assembled is very reminiscent of the more advanced Japanese

kits of this type of car. (It’s actually done in China.)

I was quite impressed with this kit and plan to get several more,

possibly eventually a fleet of them in many differing colors, and

after market decals and may even build one as a Euro Sedan

racing version.

This version has a fully detailed 10-piece engine. One look at the

instructions and you will see that this is not the old Revell kit that

we are used to seeing. Parts in this kit actually go together as they

should, without too much forcing. There is very little if any flash

to trim, and it has the thinnest tires ever put in a kit.

I painted mine Park green, a Tamiya Color and the white with

silver trim graphics were put on it with Solvaset and when

completed looked as if they were painted on. There was a choice

of two rear bumpers, a stock and a custom and a custom exhaust

system with a big metal exhaust tip for the high performance

look, to offset the bumper is a license plate that says “Boost.”

That’s about it for this time, I will be back in Austin on January

29th, so I‘ll be seeing you all in February.

Skipster

Alice King adds more to the food table. Kenny Roady photo

5Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society

(continued on page 10)

In Box Review:

1/35th scale HETZER 38(t) A.P.C.

Manufacturer: Commander Series Models, Inc.

Retail Price: $ 37.62 (U.S.)

by: Terry D. Lowman

History—This was a very interesting looking, open topped

vehicle which we probably could call a “1946” or “what if”

except that at least one prototype was built. This prototype was

later captured and photographed at the BMM factory where it

was being developed in 1945. Several photos and an excellent

color plate of this vehicle appear in Wydawnictwo Militaria No.

56, Jagdpanzer 38(t) “Hetzer”. Photos give good side exterior

views and another of the interior layout with the engine and

transmission relocated to the right side. The German name for

this vehicle was a “Katzchen” or “Vollkettenaufkl’a’rer”. The

vehicle in photos appears to be overall sand or dunkelgelb and

the color plate represents the same.

It makes an interesting addition to anyone’s collection of German

WWII vehicles. Add to that the lineage of this vehicle in the

history and development of APCs long after the end of WWII,

e.g, the use of the full, large roadwheeled 38(t) chassis system to

base the vehicle on and welded, ballistically angled plates to

form the upper hull areas. Its one large design flaw would be that

it was open-topped and therefore lacked adequate protection for

its crew and accompanying infantry inside.

Kit Review—The kit comprises fourteen, turquoise-green

colored resin parts and one white metal MG 42. Molding and

detail is very crisp, however, there are some air bubbles/sink

holes which have to be filled in and sanded smooth. Get your file

sets out as some of these are in very precarious, tight places. The

instructions do not say which kit to use as the host for the

conversion, but for detail purposes I would recommend any of

the DRAGON/DML 38(t) Hetzer kits.

Instructions are very basic with only two simple blowups. One

shows the instrument panel with gauges and radio position as

well as the MG gun mounting plate along the inside edge of the

front glacis plate. The other view shows that the fenders on the

host kit must be removed from the lower hull piece to allow the

conversion upper hull to set properly into place. The interior

seems somewhat sparse as even the box top photo shows it to

include racks, additional ammo cans for the MG 42, and a

“Rackettenscrk” (Bazooka) to enhance the side walls. Refer to

the box top photo for reference and placement of the side skirts.

Painting is entirely up to the modeler as this was only a prototype,

and again, falls into that “what if” category.

This conversion kit is highly recommended, especially if you

like to build the 38(t) chassis system and vehicle variants.

References: Wydawnictwo Militaria No. 56, Jagdpanzer 38(t)

“Hetzer” Photos: Pgs. 16-18, Color Plate: Pg.23

Terry

Mirage PZL P.11c in 1/48 scale

by Milton Bell IPMS #16702

Several years ago, I saw a 1/72 sccale kit of the P.11c entered in

a show and I really admired the lines of the aircraft. It reminded

me of the kinds of airplanes my uncle drew when he was a kid

(we were only five years apart) and I decided I wanted to build

one when a decent kit came out in 1/48. Well, LTD brought one

out and I bought it. And I was disappointed.

Finally, Mirage has come to my rescue. If you didn’t know,

Mirage is a Polish firm and the model is made in Poland. So, I

guess they should know what a PZL P.11 looks like—right?

OK, what’s a P.11c you ask. It was the most advanced fighter

that the Poles had to put in the air when the Nazis invaded in

1939. It was maneuverable though lightly armed. But, in the

hands of a skilled pilot—and the Poles had several—it was a

match for most of the aircraft it faced. Unfortunately, there were

not enough men nor adequate numbers ofmachines for the Polish

armies and they were overwhelmed.

The P.11c was a parasol winged fighter, that is the gull-wing was

mounted high on the fuselage . It has wing-struts, a fixed landing

gear, and the pilot looks out over the top of the wing but also has

an excellent view below and forward. It carried two 7.9mm

machine guns, one on each side of the fuselage, and optionally,

one in each wing. It was powered by a license-built Mercury

engine of 600 hp. As far as I can tell, they were all painted in the

same “khaki” color that had a lot more brown in it than green.

The instructions suggest a faded FS 30118 for all the upper

surfaces and the entire fuselage. The undersides of the flying

surfaces was FS 35526, a light blue.

Now to the kit. This is not a typical short-run affair. There is very

little flash, the moldings are crisp and the engraving is not

overdone. I have yet to find a heat-sink in any part. The fabric

pattern on the wing may be a little heavy but I believe most of it

will disappear under a coat of paint. The stiffeners on the

underside of the horisontal stabilizer and elevator and wing are

very well done. Locations for the underwing gun pods and struts

Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society6

Building the 1/35 AER Moldova

ASU-57

by Richard Eaton

IPMS 40101

Introduction

This is a neat little kit of an interesting Soviet airborne self-

propelled gun. Mr. Alexander Popa of AER Moldova was kind

enough to send Internet Modeler a review copy of this new

model. AER Moldova has a line of very unique Soviet vehicles

and aircraft. If you are into Soviet or airborne armor models, read

on.

The History

Airborne combat experience during WWII revealed a need for

a light, maneuverable, high velocity, self-propelled gun. The

Soviet’s answer in the early 1950s was the ASU-57. Weighing

in at only 3.3 tons the ASU-57 could be landed or parachuted

from military transports of the day. At that time this vehicle was

the only self-propelled gun capable of parachute insertion.

Equipped with a 50 HP engine and partially built of duraluminum,

this light vehicle packed a punch with a high velocity 57mm

antitank gun which was capable of piercing 100mm armor at

1000 meters range. Its very small height enhanced survivability.

With the conning armor lowered this vehicle came up only to the

average mans waist. I wish I had time to do a figure to show scale.

The ASU-57 was very successful and exported by the Soviets to

Yugoslavia, Viet Nam, and Egypt. It served on into the ’60s,

taking part in the 1967 war between Egypt and Israel.

In the Box

The kit is boxed in a small, very sturdy box. Inside is a single bag

containing all five of the gray trees of parts. Also included are a

decal sheet and a small, single sheet of instructions.

The instruction sheet contains a busy exploded drawing on

onepage and markings and deployment drawings on the other.

This drawing gives eight assembly steps. It illustrates four major

areas of the vehicle and gives part numbers for the assembled

component. It does give one pause to figure out exactly what

goes where. The instructions give nifty deployment drawings

depicting the ASU mounted on its airdrop mechanism. This

would make a great little scratch project.

The parts trees in the kit are not lettered or numbered at all. There

are the little tabs—on the sprue next to the parts—where one

normally sees embossed numbers in most model kits. However,

these are blank. Tree drawings are provided that identify part

numbers.

There are two trees of finely molded individual track links. The

tank only used 3/4 of these parts. The molding is well done and

fit was good. There is little flash, or push out pin marks to deal

with in this kit. Several parts had sinkholes including,

unfortunately, the gun barrel. The vehicle sides are thickly

molded and lack any rivet detail.

Building the ASU-57

Well, I have never built an AER kit before. It is an interesting

experience. The first set of assembly instructions read:

1 -4-37-38-40-39

After looking at the drawing and then the parts illustration for a

while I figured out that it dealt with assembling the hull

components. This process is too time consuming, and likely to

give one a headache, so I decided to just assemble the vehicle as

I would any other. I just referred to the drawings when I could

not figure out what was what.

I assembled the hull and undercarriage components without

difficulty. The drive and road wheels are nicely done with only

minor cleanup. Suspension arms are molded in and are basic

though convincing. After painting the lower hull and road

wheels I then assembled the separate tracks nights and applied

them after each had set a tad. Track parts are nicely done with

good fit. I had to thin down the drive sprockets to get the tracks

to fit around them. I then ran into trouble around the road wheels.

They were too thick to fit in the track teeth races. Hmmmm ... I

had not noticed this before and I had to do something quick. I

wound up cutting the inner track races so the tracks would snug

up to the road wheels.

I then assembled the lower hull, fighting compartment rear wall,

and floor. Pretty much all the joins needed filling and sanding.

The floor section has places for several projectiles at the ready.

The compartment rear wall has what appears to be vertical strips

of padding on the inside. Beats me, so I painted them as padding.

I then tackled the gun and gun mount. The breach is made up of

four components that needed filling and sanding a tad to eliminate

gaps. Then I cut out the long thin single piece barrel. The barrel

had pretty rough seam marks and three areas of serious sinkholes.

Hmmm.. I first went after the seams—the plastic in this kit is

brittle and sands very easily. Unfortunately, eliminating the

mold seams took the barrel out of round. I filled the holes with

CA figuring I would have to sand to restore barrel roundness

7Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society

anyway. A few minutes of careful sanding and things were

looking up. I then added the two-piece muzzle brake and sealed

that up. I assembled the mount and went to put the barrel in place.

Humm... The muzzle brake would not fit through the gun port.

I removed it and installed the gun and fabric cover before

reinstalling the brake.

I then finished installing the fighting compartment contents

starting forward and working aft. Tank controls and instruments

were basic but fit well. The seats are well done. I placed two

mysterious containers on the shelf as indicated next to the driver.

I assembled the three groupings of shells, painted them and put

them into the various positions indicated. There was some

mysterious, three-sided, bow-like thing broken in two in the box.

I repaired it and then tried to figure out what it was and where it

went. I figured it was either a fuel tank or refrigerator. It was one

of the largest pieces in the build. I found a large square numbered

27 in the tree drawings and figure that had to be it. I placed it on

the left side of the fighting compartment.

I then added the fighting compartment top surfaces and shields.

The left surface had a contour that looked like it corresponded

with the mysterious tank on that side. The tank was too large,

however, so I pulled it out and cut it down until things dry fit

well. That done, I put on the compartment shields. Again filling

was required.

I then placed the various hull-mounted items around the tank as

I identified them. The muffler and headlights cleaned up well

and went on. There were two very thick straight light protectors

that I can only assume were to be bent to shape and installed on

the lights. They broke readily so I used brass wire. I wrapped up

the assembly by putting the various hooks, tools, shields, and

antennae mount in place.

Painting and Weathering

Kit directions give color schemes and markings for a Soviet,

Czech, or Egyptian vehicle. The Arabic markings intrigued me

early on so I went with that. I sprayed the entire kit Testors Desert

Sand at various points during assembly. I painted the track with

scale black. Once dry, I added a wash of a mix of acrylic scale

red-brown to the entire tank. Then I washed the tracks again with

rust.

And now my favorite part of armor modeling, dry brushing! I

used Testors steel to highlight detail all over the tank and treads.

I painted the tools wood brown and scale black. I finished up the

weathering by applying ground pastel black and brown with a

brush to the gun muzzle, breach, and pretty much anywhere I felt

like it. I mainly accented the panel lines. I then weathered the

tracks and lower hull with heavy brown pastel chalk.

Decals

Kit decals went on without a hitch. I applied the kit decals over

a gloss base using Future. The decals were thin and easy to work

with. I then sprayed dullcoat over the model to seal things up.

Conclusion

I took the completed model and set it in my garden for the

completed shots. (Sorry we gave away the sand box) This kit

builds up fairly easily to a really nice representation of this self-

propelled gun. I have never before seen a kit of this interesting

vehicle. I recommend it to the advanced level armor builder due

to the separate tracks, fit, and instructions. This kit makes a good

base for a model of this vehicle. Advanced builders would want

to enhance kit parts in several areas. AER makes some one-of-

a-kind kits. I can’t wait to see what they come up with next!

I want to thank Mr. Alexander Popa, of the AER MOLDOVA

Company, for generously providing this review kit.

Richard

Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society8

Small ScalesSmall Scales

Small Scales

A closer lookA closer look

A closer look

byby

Rafael PowerRafael Power

Rafael Power

1/72 1/72 1/72 1/72 1/72 1/72

1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144 1/144

1/200 1/200 1/200 1/200 1/200

DOUGLAS KA-3B SKYWARRIOR

1:72 scale by Hasegawa

Kit #: 04442

Origin: Molding/decals: Japan

Vintage:1998

Parts: 83 light gray, 3 clear

Markings: · BuNo. 142662 VAQ-308, 1978

· BuNo. 147648 VAK-308, 1987

· BuNo. 147663 VAK-208, 1987

Conversion options (not included):

Aftermarket

EA/EKA/KA-3B conversions and decals

Historical Data

Also known as the “Whale,” the Douglas A3D (redesignated the

A-3 in 1962) Skywarrior first flew in 1952. Designed as a

shipboard bomber, many A-3s were converted to flight refueling,

electronic countermeasures-ECM, electronic intelligence-

ELINT, photo-reconnaissance, crew trainer, and VIP transport

platforms. A number of A-3s sported a strange variety of

radomes, probes, and pods while on contract loan to companies

like General Dynamics, Grumman, Hughes, and Raytheon for

the development of radar, ECM, and navigation equipment.

Later, the A-3 was the foundation for its biggest mutation, the

Douglas B-66 Destroyer built for the Air Force in 1954.

Other Kits Available

The pickings are rather slim on this one. Revell released a box-

scale H-241 A3D Skywarrior during 1958-59, later reissued

during the mid-1990s. Not a bad kit if you just need a desktop

display model mounted on a pedestal. Later came an excellent

Rareplanes KA-3B vacuform with injected landing gear and

basic black and white decals. In the high end of the price scale

(at a whopping $200 plus shipping), Collect-Aire recently

released a 1/48 solid resin A-3B with photoetched parts and

decals.

First Impressions

A rather large box for the scale but worth the content protection.

Excellent engraved detail overall. The kit is identical to

Hasegawa’s A-3B kit #04041 since they just reboxed it, and

changed the decals and instruction sheet. The molding shows the

usual annoying injection-pin marks in the engine intake halves,

tires, landing gear doors, etc.

Instructions

As is customary, Hasegawa provides an excellent instruction

sheet showing some basic aircraft historical data, good detail

drawings and clear directions with markings and stenciling

placement guide. The parts tree diagram indicates additional

pieces (in gray screen) not needed for the KA-3B. Add them to

the spares box.

Decals

All three A-3s depicted in the kit are in the standard U.S. Navy

white bottom, flaps and ailerons while the rest of the fuselage is

overall gray. I don’t spend too much time on this section but I’ll

make an exception this time. Although close to perfection,

Hasegawa lets the kit down with its decal sheet. They are

sufficiently thin, correct, and with a good amount of stenciling,

but they can’t compare with aftermarket decals made by

AeroMaster and Superscale/Microscale.

The colors in Hasegawa’s decal sheets are bland with light

colors such as white having a show-through effect. The red areas

looked bland, resembling those done in a laser printer, rather

than silk screened. In contrast, the colors in other manufacturer’s

decal sheets are vivid, inviting you to apply them to your model.

For those who like to weather their models, the non-slip gray top

service area on the decal sheet is too dark, so paint your own.

Remember, mechanics step on it and scratch it so weather it just

like they do. Also this sheet shows small glossy and matte pools

on the surfaces within the same marking. It appears the decal

sheet came in contact with the plastic protective wrapper and

stuck to it, causing this effect.

Fuselage Fit and Finish

As with all current generation Hasegawa kits, this one fits

without a hitch. All panel lines link both fuselage halves with

little to no rescribing required. The surface finish has a polished

finish with a few small scratches you need to fill or polish. You’ll

probably add some of your own during assembly. The clear parts

didn’t have a single molding, injection or packaging blemish.

Amazing! To protect the clear parts from scratches, buy yourself

a box of small size reclosable lock-seal sandwich bags and

immediately store them in there until you are ready to construct

the model.

9Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society

Wings

Although very well done and thin, the three-piece wings have

one defect. The model outboard leading edge slats don’t have the

drop down option. All photos will show the slats in the dropped

position while the aircraft is at rest on the ground. If Hasegawa,

Hobbycraft, and Monogram provided this option on their 1:48

A-4 Skyhawks, why didn’t Hasegawa do the same on this kit?

Also, there’s no option to fold the wings and the flaps down.

The Interior

Ever been inside a Skywarrior? I have, and it’s cramped inside

and not for the claustrophobic! It’s loaded with masses of

electronics, protective quilting, lots of instrumentation and yes;

the obligatory relief tubes on the seats. Hey, don’t ask me what

they’re for! Sufficient to say they are necessary, OK? Otherwise

ask Bondo Phil.

The kit’s cockpit is too basic. The kit’s extensive canopy panels

let you see most of what’s inside so an aftermarket cockpit is

recommended. The canopy needs the overhead instrumentation

panels and protective quilting. The A-3 has no ejection seats

since egress from is done through a chute in the belly of the

aircraft. According to Aerofax’s book on the A-3 Skywarrior,

the crew entry hatch varies according to the type of A-3. Let that

publication guide you.

Landing Gear

The A-3 has one of the most complicated exposed main gear

assemblies and Hasegawa makes a good effort. A few wires and

stenciling will complete the job. The gear does sit a tad high so

try to lower it a bit. The nose gear is molded as a single-piece

gear/wheel assembly. I wish Hasegawa would mold the wheels

and legs separate to make them more realistic and easier to paint.

Small Assembly Details

In spite of the kit’s quality, small areas have been forgotten. The

two-piece hose drogue in-flight refueling assembly has no catch

basket sticking out of the aft section.

My Recommendations:

• Replace the kit decals with new AeroMaster #72-161

decal sheet with markings for VAQ-131, VAK-308, and

VAH-10 tankers. Other sheets available. However

use the kit’s decal stenciling since the AeroMaster

sheet has none.

• If available, replace the cockpit with a resin and

photoetched detail set.

• Make sure your model’s landing gear sits low enough.

Built up photos indicate the model sits too high and the

tail should be lower than the nose.

Final Comments

Hasegawa did it right! It took a long time to get an acceptable

1:72 A-3 Skywarrior but instead we got an excellent one. A little

work (decals, detail sets, etc.) will complete the job if you are

really picky. Is there a 1:144 or 1:48 scale injection molded

plastic A-3 Skywarrior in the future? Hmm!

References

Here’s a large amount of reference material available on the A-

3. Note that I included Internet websites since they are just as

essential as regular books, and they are free!

Books

• Aerograph 5: Douglas A-3 Skywarrior – René Francillón/

Edward Heinemann (Aerofax, 1987) A must-have book!

• In Action 148: A-3 Skywarrior – Jim Sullivan (Squadron/

Signal Publications, 1995)

Plans/Drawings

• Warpaint – Douglas A3D Skywarrior (1:72 plans) – Chris

Bowley (Aviation News, issue # unknown)

• Tailhook Topics: A-3 Whale Versions – Tommy Thomason

(IPMS Quarterly, 1986)

Photo-Articles

• Aggressive Whales Over The Pacific – Frank B. Mormillo

(Koku-Fan, Oct. 84)

• Decline Of The Whale – Lindsay Peacock (Air Forces Monthly,

Sept. 87)

• Skywarrior – The U.S. Navy’s “Ultimate” Nuclear Bomber –

Norman Polmar (Air Enthusiast 35, 1988)

• We Are The Enemy: Fleet Electronics Warfare Squadron –

Frank B. Mormillo (Koku-Fan, May 88)

• Whale Country: NAS Alameda – Takashi Hashimoto (Koku-

Fan, Jan. 87)

Related internet websites (Lots of photos!)

http://www.a3skywarrior.com (Official A-3 Skywarrior

Association site)

www.worldzone.net/technology/mike1087/a3/a3fairford.htm

(Good detail shots)

http://www.xs4all.nl/~designer/models/a3/a3.htm (Building and

modifying A-3 models)

Aviation Links to Check Out

CAF http://www.commemorativeairforce.org/

OV-10 Bronco Association http:www.ov-10bronco.net/

Flight of the Valkyrie http://labiker.org/xb70.html

Gathering of Corsairs http://corsairgathering.com/

Habu http://www.habu.org/

Lockheed Blackbirds (John Stone) http://blackbirds.net/

Planes and Pilots of WWII http://home.att/~c.c.jordan/

San Diego Aerospace Museum

http://www.aerospacemuseum.org/

USAF Museum (Dayton-wsright)

http://www.wpafb.af.mil/museum/

USAF http://www.af.mil/photos

Luft’46 http://users.visi.net/~djohnson/luft46.html

Jasta38DD http://www.wwimodeler.com/jasta 38dd.html

New Zealand www.kiwiaircraftimages.com/aviation.html

Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society10

(PZL P.11c continued)

are indicated by smooth, non-detailed spots. The elevators and

ailerons are attached but the ends are molded free—a neat trick!

The cockpit has separate pieces for the internal framing and a

floor. The instrument panel, floor, belts, and some exterior

details are done in PE. The one piece of resin is the oil radiator

and it looks looks pretty nice; just needs thinning. The tiny

windscreen is thin enough; just don’t drop it.

The Mercury engine is good enough and you may want to add

some plumbing. Thankfully, the exhaust stubs are molded into

the front of the cowling, the exhaust collector. The cowling is in

three pieces but the seam should not be a problem. The shroud

that covers the gear-box, etc. is well detailed and if you want, you

can open the vent holes. The two-bladed prop and its spinner

assembly should go together without a hitch.

The only complaints I’ve heard of the kit are that the decals may

not stick as well as what we are accustomed to—enter diluted

white glue—and that the wing struts are a bit short. In case your

struts are short, I suggest adding a shim to the bottom end.

If you want to check out some photos of a P.11c in a museum go

to: http://www.modelarstwo.org.pl/lotnicze/dokumentacja/

galerie/p-11/kadlub/08.html . You don’t need to know Polish to

find what you need. Be aware that the example in the museum

was modified by its captors. The wheels—too small—and the

outside handbrake were added. I’m not sure about the instruments

but I believe the interior should be natural metal.

Mirage is offering three versions of the P.11c; a fighter, a fighter-

bomber and one in Rumanian AF markings. Dave Orloff has

already finished his fighter version so we may expect a review

and pictures from him in a future issue.

This is a very nice kit of an important historical aircraft and high

time we had one in 1/48. Considering the prices for less exotic

fare, the $23 or so asked for the PZL isn’t bad. I recommend it.

Milton

yellow color fades at the antenna base; it’s not that Bondo forgot

to paint the whole thing!

Ordnance

Tigercats often lugged napalm for night interdiction missions,

so I used the same type external fuel tanks, painted in OD, that

I saw being used as nape canisters in a Korean War pictorial

publication. Standard rockets were also added to the model.

Extra piping was added to the centerline external fuel tank.

Finishing

I first shot the overall airframe in Midnight Black acrylic, then

masked off various panels that were shot in Interior Black. Gear

struts and wheel wells were done in dark blue per the practice of

the day. The copious exhaust stains were done with two or three

separately mixed shades. Light streaks of exhaust color were

airbrushed over the stabilizer surfaces as well. Pastels work very

well in simulating the filthy, dusty grime accumulated in combat

conditions. My main weathering references were the excellent

color pics in “Wings” Vol. 18, No. 5 (October 1989). I also added

very lightly brushed streaks over all flying surfaces. The

aluminum skin poking everywhere through the chipped black

paint was done with silver pencil.

I noted that the hue of the squadron markings on decal sheets was

much redder than the “bittersweet” or orangy-red shade in the

color pics. The “WF” squadron markings were handmade, cut

out of decal paper that had been sprayed with the proper, custom

mixed color. National insignia is from aftermarket sheets.

Presentation

As Texas show goers know, Bondo doesn’t like to just toss his

contest entries out onto the Plain Jane white tablecloths that are

used by most clubs. In this case I skipped my trademark base

with a simulated aircraft panel held down by stainless screws for

a very nicely cast aftermarket PSP resin base. Weathering here

was done over a basic aluminum coat washed with OD, and

stained by simulated oil drip areas under both recips.

Bondo Phil

(Tigercat continued)

Feedback Requested

We are beginning another year for ASMS. In fact, it will be our

30th year as a club. I have been doing the newsletter for several

years now and for the most part have had good participation from

most members.

Several of us have shared our background in modeling and told

a tale or two about how we got into the hobby. These modeler

bios make good reading. If you haven’t written one, please

consider it.

Now for the feedback. I want your comments about the newsletter.

Do you like it? Don’t like it? Do you want to see something

different. Do you like the new name, like the layout, or just don’t

really care. Whatever, I’d like to know. My email address is

[email protected] That’s where to send your contributions

also. Thanks for your help.

11Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society

Old RumorsOld Rumors

Old Rumors & New Kits

Are you a current member

of IPMS? Well, here’s your

chance to join the largest

organization dedicated to

advancing the hobby of Plastic

Modeling!

As a member you’ll get the

Journal six times a year and you

can participate in the National

Convention to be held in

Oklahoma City in July.

And, if you want to be an officer

in ASMS, you MUST be a

member.

And remember, we need to keep

our IPMS Charter alive and

healthy. Join Today!

It’s a short page this month but there’s quite a bit of new

information. There are a lot of new kits in the shops, everything

from the huge Trumpeter USS Hornet to some new rally cars.

Probably the most popular is the new Tamiya P-47D Razorback

and it’s a really neat kit. Probably the best single engine aircraft

kit I’ve seen in a while.

I just took a look a the two new Classic Airframes “Hornets.” I

especially like the Sea Hornet with optional radar nose. Both

these kits have a fair share of resin details and very clear vac-

formed canopies. The moldings are clean with finely engraved

details and I’m sure they can be built into convincing models.

Just one thing—I sure wish CA would get away from that butt

joint where the wing joins the fuselage. That’s tough for a new

modeler and no snap for old ones either!

I saw a new product that looks intriguing to me. It’s a PE mask

from Eduard designed to paint the mottles or splotches on the

fuselage of an Me 109. There are two masks—one for large

mottles and one for small. No idea how well they work but I bet

Floyd will have a report soon enough. Scale is 1/48.

Eduard has a couple of neat little 1/72 scale Albatross two

seaters; an L-39ZA and an L-39C. Each kit has the now usual

canopy masks. Either should make a very sharp little model of

this Czech multi-role aircraft.

Hobbycraft is showing their new P-59s on their website and

indicate a January release. This is the first time this first US jet

aircraft has been done in 1/48 and in injected form. There are two

versions due and the photos look like some pretty good detail. A

note of caution: HC says the kit will have “real rubber” tires. If

they are the soft, squishy, vinyl that AMT used in their F9F,

don’t let them come into contact with the styrene. Be on the safe

side until you know for sure. The earlier tires dissolved styrene.

I expect a good set of resin details for the P-59 soon.

Trumpeter has a boatload of kits out now. Newest are the 1/35

Mi4A “Hound” helo, the 1/72 TU-95MS Bear, the 1/24 P-51D

and the already mentioned 1/350 USS Hornet. Look for a 1/32

F4F Wildcat next month.

Gavia has a new three-gun nose La-7. This is the same plastic as

in their earlier release, it just has a new resin nose with three gun

ports and new decals. They also have a new WWI Bristol Scout

that looks good in the box. Both are 1/48 scale.

There is some unexpected news from Grand Phoenix, the folks

who brought us the two Firefly kits last year. This time it’s a jet

and a most welcome one too—an FJ-4B Fury in 1/48. The

release date is supposed to be “around February.” At least three

decal versions are shown on their advance info.

There is some new armor from Dragon, a 1/35 Sd.Kfz 164

Hornisse and a late Panther A.

And, if you want a model already “built” and painted, check out

Dragon Warbirds latest. A pair of F-16s—one in Tiger Meet

markings and one in Wolf Pack 2002 colors. There are actually

some parts to “add” to these very well done 1/72 die-cast replicas

and if that’s what rings your bell, go to it.

That’s it for this month. Don’t forget that it’s time for dues so

bring your money Thursday. Now go build a model.

Milton

Newsletter of the Austin Scale Modelers Society12

Austin Scale Modelers Society

Next Meeting:

Thursday, January 16

7509 St. Phillip

Austin, TX 78757