Do-It-Yourself - Sprinkler Planning & Installation Guide

Do-It-Yourself

Sprinkler Planning

& Installation Guide

Your beautiful landscape awaits...

TABLE OF CONTENTS

BEFORE YOU BEGIN........................1

USING THE TORO DESIGN SERVICE ...........4

QUESTIONNAIRE ..........................5

PROPERTY PLAN LAYOUT SHEET..............6

TRADITIONAL IRRIGATION INSTALLATION ..1-12

STEP 1 - Gather Required Information .......2

STEP 2 - Map Out Your System ............7

STEP 3 - Install It!.......................9

TROUBLESHOOTING ......................13

APPENDIX A-E ........................14-16

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ............18

IRRIGATION INSTALLATION TIPS ............19

TWO SYSTEMS ARE BETTER THAN ONE

Congratulations on your decision to install an automatic

irrigation system. An automatic irrigation system will help you

create the landscape you’ve always wanted by making sure

your plants get the water they need, just when they need it.

How many times have you forgotten to water your lawn, or

worse yet, over-watered it and ended up with unsightly brown

spots and muddy puddles? You could be using up to 50%

more water than your yard needs. That isn’t good for your lawn

or your pocketbook. The solution is precision watering using

an automatic irrigation system which can be adjusted to the

individual needs of different plantings. You will get a thicker,

greener lawn and more beautiful gardens, as you save time

and water.

There are two different styles of irrigation systems you can

use: traditional sprinkler-based systems and drip irrigation

systems. The good news is you don’t have to choose between

them because they work better together. This is an instance

where two really are better than one.

Traditional sprinkler-based systems are well suited to

watering large areas of grass and areas with plants having

similar watering needs. They water uniformly by broadcasting

water in well defined patterns, five feet or more in diameter.

To water smaller areas, we recommend drip irrigation.

Drip irrigation is the ideal complement to traditional irrigation.

Rather than broadcasting water over large areas, a drip system

is set up to water very small, specific areas. For that reason, drip

systems are good for patios, near foundation walls, watering

specific plants within larger garden areas and tight, slow-

draining clay soils. In so doing, drip systems use little water

and discourage weed growth. (For details on drip irrigation

and planning, refer to the Toro Blue Stripe Drip Planning &

Installation Guide.)

So, in order to create the best irrigation system possible for

your plants, don’t think in terms of traditional or drip; think in

terms of traditional and drip. You get the best of both worlds

and the very best results.

%#842!

An example of traditional sprinkler-based and drip irrigation

systems. This system uses automatic in-line valves.

Do-It-Yourself

Sprinkler Planning

& Installation Guide

•

INTRODUCTION

✓

DRAW YOUR PROPERTY

Use the layout paper provided on page 6 of this guide.

Each small square on the graph should represent one square

foot of actual property or use a scale such as 1 inch = 10 feet,

1 inch = 20 feet, etc. Using the tape measure, measure your

property and draw it to scale on the layout paper. Use the

drawing below as an example.

BEGINNING YOUR DESIGN

There are two options for getting a design for your

automatic irrigation system:

1. Follow the instructions in this guide and use the layout paper

on page 6 to design and draw your irrigation system.

OR,

2. Let Toro do the irrigation system design for you!

See page 4 for more information on Toro’s

Sprinkler Design Service.

In either case, you will need to complete sections A - D. We

suggest you use the following planning tools: pencil, scratch

paper, drawing compass, 50’ tape measure, straight edge or

ruler, line marking paint for marking trenches, Toro flags for

marking sprinkler locations and a Toro Flow & Pressure Gauge.

TIP:

If you do not own a flow & pressure gauge, ask your local

home center if they have one in their rental center.

 PVC pipe cutter

 Screwdriver

 Pipe wrenches

 Hammer

 Trenching shovel

 Line marking paint

 1” pipe clamps (poly only)

 PTFE tape

 Duct tape

 Tape measure

 Solvent, primer, rags (PVC only — do not

use pipe dope on plastic-threaded fittings.)

 Toro flow and pressure gauge

 Toro marking flags

 Toro water-proof connectors or grease caps

 18 gauge, multi-strand direct burial wire

(number of strands varies depending on

the number of zones).

CHECK LOCAL CODES AND PERMIT

REQUIREMENTS

Before beginning your irrigation project, contact your

local water company or the proper municipal authority for

information on building codes and required permits. They can

also tell you about requirements for the backflow prevention

devices required in your area. These devices protect your water

supply from contamination and are required for inground

irrigation systems.

WARNING!

Serious injury may result from damaging

buried electrical or gas lines. Before digging or trenching, have

your local utility companies mark all buried cables, pipes, and

gas lines!

TOOLS AND OTHER SUPPLIES YOU MAY NEED

During installation, you will need several accessories and

a variety of pipe fittings. The list below shows materials

you may need:

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

There is no question that planning and installing an irrigation

system is a big job, but it is not a difficult one. To make it easier,

we have divided the process into just three steps that walk

you through the job from beginning to end. They are: Gather

Required Information, Map Out Your System and Install It.

Remember, we’re here to help you.

Visit www.toro.com or www.torodesign.com

or call 800-367-8676.

REMEMBER:

• Outline your house, garage, and other structures.

• Show walkways, drives, slabs, patios, and other surfaces.

• Identify trees and major obstacles.

• Measure and record the perimeter of your property.

• Identify any slopes.

• Show groundcover, grass, flower beds and landscaping.

• Identify the size and location of the

water meter (or pump) and main line.

• Identify the type of soil in your yard: sand, loam, or clay.

TIP:

Be sure to double

check all measurements.

Water

Meter

GETTING STARTED

WATER SERVICE INFORMATION

Once you have the property plan completed, you will need to

gather some very important information about your property’s

water supply system.

What is the diameter of the water supply line?

Call your local water company or, if they can’t help you,

measure your supply line (the pipe coming out to meter).

Wrap a piece of string around the pipe once and then

measure the string. Use the chart below to determine

the supply line diameter.

Diameter =

__________inches

Length of

String

” 3

” 4” 4

” 5”

Copper

Service Line

” - 1” - 1

” -

Galvanized

or PVC

” - 1” - 1

”

EMITTER

CLAY

LOAM

SAND

Wetting patterns for

different soil types

DETERMINE YOUR SOIL TYPE

There is a simple way to determine what type of soil – sand,

loam, or clay - you have in your yard. All you need is a

clean, empty jar with a lid, some clean water, a tablespoon of

detergent, and a sample of the soil you want to test. To do so:

• Fill the jar about

full with the soil to be tested.

• Fill the jar with water and detergent then cap it.

• Shake the jar vigorously and set aside

for several hours or overnight.

Evaluate the results:

A. If the water is clear and the

soil has settled to the bottom,

you have predominantly sand

soil.

B. If the water is still murky with

bits of matter still suspended

in it, you have loam soil.

C. If the water is still murky,

and there is a visible ring of

sediment around the jar, then

your soil is mostly clay.

For more information on soil

types and more precise ways to

ascertain soil composition, you

can refer to: www.yardcare.com.

STEP 1 - GATHER REQUIRED INFORMATION

USING A BUCKET & STANDARD

PRESSURE GAUGE

• Find the outside faucet that is closest

to your water supply line.

(Call this Faucet 1)

• Select a different outside faucet on

your house and attach a pressure

gauge. (Faucet 2)

• With Faucet 1 closed, open Faucet 2 all the

way and record the static water pressure below.

• With Faucet 1 open all the way, check the

pressure reading on the gauge at Faucet 2.

*If it is less than 40 PSI, turn down the water flow from

Faucet 1 until the reading reaches 40 PSI.

• Place a 5-gallon bucket under Faucet 1 and time how long it

takes to fill it. Use the chart below to convert to GPM. This

test tells you what your home’s water capacity is measured

in GPM at 40 PSI.

• Repeat this procedure at 45 PSI and 50 PSI and

record these three results on the chart below:

This is how much water is available with a working pressure

of 40 PSI or the higher reading that you recorded. (Minimum

operating pressure for most sprinklers is 35 PSI.)

Record the static

pressure here:

Record the GPM here:

NOTE:

If you use a different size bucket, time how long it takes

to fill it. Convert this to GPM using the following formula:

60 ÷ Seconds x Gallons

For example: A 2-gallon bucket that fills in 15 seconds means the

available flow is 8 GPM

60 ÷ 15 x 2 = 8 GPM

WATER FLOW & PRESSURE

DETERMINE YOUR WATER PRESSURE & FLOW

You can use either of the two methods listed:

USING A TORO FLOW & PRESSURE GAUGE

The Toro Flow and Pressure Gauge is a dual purpose device

designed to measure water pressure to 160 PSI and water flow

to 13 GPM. This flow and pressure gauge is not intended for

use on lines larger than one inch. The gauge will only measure

flow through the outside faucet – not in the line.

To measure the static pressure:

• Make sure no water is being used inside or outside the

home.

• Attach the flow gauge to the outside faucet nearest to

where the main line enters the house.

• Make sure the flow gauge is closed by completely

turning the handle clockwise.

• Open the outside faucet slowly to avoid damaging

the flow gauge.

• When the outside faucet is fully opened, read the

system static pressure and record it below.

Record the static

system pressure here:

NOTE:

Static pressure measures the pressure in the system with

no water running. It is measured in pounds per square inch or PSI.

To measure the dynamic pressure

and gallons-per-minute rates:

• Continue to open the flow gauge slowly by turning the

handle counter-clockwise.

*As the flow gauge opens, pressure will drop from the static

reading and the gallons-per-minute (GPM) reading will rise.

• Open the flow gauge until pressure drops to 50 PSI.

• Record the gallons-per-minute reading on the chart below.

• Continue to close the gauge to 45 and 40 PSI and record

the GPM readings.

If the pressure does not drop to 40 PSI after opening the flow

gauge all the way then take the flow and pressure reading at

the full-open position. If rapid fluctuation occurs on the flow

gauge, record the average reading.

NOTE:

Dynamic or working pressure is the pressure in the

system with the water running. The dynamic pressure will

determine how far your sprinklers will spray.

Record the GPM indicated

on your flow and pressure

gauge here:

Static PSI __________

Time To Fill Bucket Gallons Per Minute

15 seconds 20 GPM

20 seconds 15 GPM

25 seconds 12 GPM

30 seconds 10 GPM

40 seconds 7.5 GPM

Static PSI __________

______GPM at 40 PSI

______GPM at 45 PSI

______GPM at 50 PSI

______GPM at __ PSI

If readings are higher,

record here:

______GPM at 40 PSI

______GPM at 45 PSI

______GPM at 50 PSI

______GPM at __ PSI

If readings are higher,

record here:

GATHER REQUIRED INFORMATION - STEP 1

Your Name: ________________________________________ Scale: _____ Inch = _____Feet

PROPERTY PLAN LAYOUT SHEET

LAYOUT THE VALVES ON YOUR PLAN

We recommend grouping the valves together. For example,

grouping all the valves needed to operate the front yard zones

together. This symbol

represents a valve location.

Locate the first set of valves in a convenient spot near the main

water connection. A good idea is to place valves next to walks

or in planters for easier access.

The example on the next page shows two valve manifold

locations. The front valve manifold controls zones 1, 2, 3 and 4.

The backyard valve manifold controls zones 5, 6, 7 and 8.

It is recommended that the timer be able to control more

valves than are called for in your plan. This will make any future

expansion much easier. The Toro ECXTRA

expandable timer

would be ideal to use in this example.

CREATE YOUR ZONES

Now it’s time to determine how many zones you will need.

A zone is a group of sprinklers that operate together using

one common irrigation valve. Each valve, and thus each zone,

is operated by your system’s timer.

HEAD-TO-HEAD COVERAGE

For proper coverage, layout your sprinkler heads so that the

spray from one reaches all those adjacent to it. Head-to-head

coverage ensures uniform water application, which saves water

and creates the best possible results. (Refer to diagram.) For

areas with winds regularly above 8 mph, place sprinklers closer

together — 90% of the spray radius or less depending on the

prevailing wind direction and speed.

Determine the correct spacing using the sprinkler radius. For

example, if you are using Toro 570™ sprinklers with a radius

of 15’, place your sprinklers no more than 15’ apart - closer

together if you are in a windy area.

TIP:

To make sure you have proper head-to-head spacing,

use a compass to draw arcs representing sprinkler coverage,

as shown in the diagram.

MAP OUT YOUR SPRINKLERS

AND EMITTERS

Now it’s almost time to draw in your sprinklers on your

irrigation plan. Before you do, be sure to consider the

following information:

• Draw sprinklers within each zone of

your plan one area at a time.

• Place sprinklers with the greatest radius in larger areas.

*Pay attention to the allowable spacing range for the

sprinklers selected to create head-to-head coverage.

• Always place sprinklers in a way that avoids spraying the

side of your house, walls, fences, etc. Also, minimize the

water spraying onto sidewalks, driveways and streets.

• Place half-circle sprinklers on edges and borders,

quarter-circle sprinklers in corners, and full-circle

sprinklers in the middle of spaces.

• Use rotor or impact sprinklers to cover large areas.

They can distribute water up to 48’.

• Use 570

™

fan spray sprinklers to cover smaller areas.

They are effective up to radii of 15’.

• Use bubblers or drip irrigation in small confined

areas and to water plants individually.

• To help in your planning and irrigation component selection,

we have included component selection information in the

Appendix (pages 14-17) at the end of this manual.

TIP:

Do not mix fixed-spray and rotors within the same zone.

Half Circle

Quarter Circle

Full Circle

Correct head-to-head spacing

Incorrect head-to-head spacing

15’ Radius

DIVIDE YOUR SYSTEM

To determine the number of zones you need in your system,

do the following:

Write down the flow capacity in GPM for each type of

sprinkler in your layout. (see page 17)

Next, divide similar sprinklers into groups.

• Separate lawn and shrub areas.

• Separate shady and sunny areas.

*Different sprinkler types apply water at different rates so don’t

mix sprinkler types within zones. For example, fixed-spray

sprinklers should not be grouped with rotary sprinklers.

Add up the sprinkler GPM for each of the zones you have

created on your plan. If the total flow exceeds the safe design

capacity for your system, split that zone in two, or, if possible,

put some of the sprinklers into another zone. Remember to

move sprinklers to other zones based on slope, sun, shade

or GPM.

COUNT YOUR ZONES

Count up the number of zones you have in your design. That

is the number of irrigation valves you will need. In the example

on page 8, we will need eight valves because we have eight

zones. This will also affect the size timer you will need to buy.

MAP OUT THE SYSTEM - STEP 2

•

STEP 2 - MAP OUT THE SYSTEM

KEY:

Zone Valve

Timer

Sprinkler Head

Water Meter

An incorrect piping system

with too many turns in the

pipe results in reduced flow

and pressure to the last

sprinkler on the line.

A correct piping

system with

straight runs.

DRAW IN THE LOCATION OF THE TIMER

Install the timer inside your garage or on an outside wall near

a 120 VAC outlet. Toro offers a weather-resistant timer cabinet

for mounting in exterior locations. Toro also offers an ECXTRA

expandable timer with an integrated all-weather enclosure

to make mounting in exterior locations easier. Check local

electrical codes for connection requirement to outside plugs.

Use this symbol

to reflect the timer location.

Place zone or valve wires in the same trenches as the pipe.

Remember that the valves will be wired to the timer, so run

the valve wires where they will be easily accessible. Toro

recommends 18-gauge, multi-strand, direct-burial wire to

connect valves to sprinkler timers if the distance is 1000 feet

or less (refer to Timer to Valve wire sizing chart on page 18).

You will need one wire per zone, plus the common wire. For

instance, this eight-zone system requires nine wires. Be sure to

use Toro’s Waterproof Connection Caps or grease caps for all

your waterproof connections.

TIP:

Always install 2 or more wires than valves

to make it easier to add more valves in the future.

DRAW IN THE PIPES

Use the following symbols to layout your irrigation pipes:

Main line from the water source to the valves

From the valves to the sprinkler heads

(shown only for zones 1 and 4)

Under driveway and walkways

When laying out your irrigation lines

observe the following guidelines:

• Use as many straight runs as possible.

• Try to avoid turns, which result in loss of pressure.

• Avoid runs under sidewalks and driveways whenever possible.

• Make 90 degree connections wherever possible.

NOTE:

You can include more than one pipe in a trench.

Depending on local codes and zone GPM , consider using 1”

Schedule 40 PVC pipe upstream of control valves and at least

⁄

” Class 200 PVC pipe or

⁄

” poly pipe downstream.

D E

USING THE GPM RATE TO

CHOOSE THE CORRECT PIPE

To determine the proper pipe size for

your system, refer to the chart below.

FLOW RATES FOR SERVICE

LINES & SPRINKLER LINES

Maximum Flow through

PVC (Plastic) Pipe:

PVC Pipe Size Max. GPM

” Schedule 40 8 GPM

1” Schedule 40 13 GPM

” Class 200 10 GPM

1” Class 200 15 GPM

Maximum Flow through

New Galvanized Pipe:

Galvanized Pipe Size

Max. GPM

” Galvanized Pipe 8 GPM

1” Galvanized Pipe 13 GPM

Maximum Flow through

Type K Copper Pipe:

Copper Pipe Size Max. GPM

” Copper Tube 6 GPM

1” Copper Tube 12 GPM

Maximum Flow through

Polyethylene Pipe:

Poly Pipe Size Max. GPM

” Poly Pipe 8 GPM

1” Poly Pipe 13 GPM

NOTE:

In freezing areas,

poly pipe should be

used downstream of

zone valves.

Side Lawn

Grass Strip

Planter Area

Timer

Zone 2

Zone 1

Zone 2

Zone 7

Zone 8

Zone 6

Zone 3

Zone 5

Zone 4

Zone 3

Zone 6

IF THE METER IS IN YOUR BASEMENT:

1. Shut off your water supply at the meter

(check with your water utility).

2. Install an appropriate tee into the service line

for the irrigation connection.

3. Drill a hole through the sill above the foundation, or chisel

a hole in the basement wall for the irrigation line to run

through. Make it no bigger than needed for a 1” pipe.

4. Install the connection fittings, as shown. A ball valve is a

good choice for the irrigation shut-off. For the drain valve,

use a gate-type valve. The drain valve should be as low as

possible to allow complete system drainage.

5. Feed your irrigation system pipe out through

the basement wall, and run it to the backflow

preventer location.

6. Finally, seal the hole in the sill or

foundation with caulking compound.

Typical installation if the meter is in your basement

IF THE METER IS IN YOUR YARD:

1. Shut off your water supply at the meter

(check with your water department first).

2. Dig to expose the service line.

3. Tie into the service line, between the water meter

and the house.

4. Remove a section of pipe, leaving a gap large enough

to slide on a compression tee.

5. Slip the tee over each end of the pipe.

6. Tighten the compression nuts. The rubber gasket will

compress against the pipe, creating a seal to prevent leakage.

7. Install a short nipple, using PTFE tape on all threaded

connections to the tee.

8. Attach a shut-off valve, in a small enclosure, to this section

of pipe. The shut-off valve allows you to turn off the system

by hand, if necessary.

9. Keep this connection as clean as possible.

This is your tap water supply.

Typical installation if the meter is in your yard

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INSTALL IT! - STEP 3

CHECK LOCAL CODES AND PERMITS

Double check to ensure you have secured all permits. In

addition, have the local utilities mark all the buried lines and

pipes before you start digging.

In most areas, dialing 811

will get your utilities marked.

Otherwise contact your

local utility provider(s).

MARK YOUR SPRINKLERS, RISERS,

VALVES & TRENCHES

Use Toro flags to indicate sprinkler locations according to your

design. Also, mark the location of your drip system risers. Even

if you plan to install the actual drip system at a later date, you

can install your drip risers with the rest of your system.

Use line-marking spray paint to mark where you’ll trench for

pipes and wiring. Check your worksheet to make sure you mark

the lines accurately. You will be digging your trenches along

these lines.

TAP INTO YOUR MAIN WATER LINE

By cutting into your service line and slipping on a compression

tee, you can connect your sprinkler system to the water

supply without soldering. In some instances, you can avoid

cutting the main line by attaching your system to the outside

faucet connection (see diagram and note). PVC pipe may be

substituted for copper in non-freezing areas.

SHUT-OFF VALVES

Whether a Pressure Vacuum Breaker (PVB) is used or not,

we recommend installing a shut-off valve between the zone

valves and the service line. This will allow you to easily turn off

the water to your irrigation system if you need to make repairs

or replace parts. Check local codes for the type of shut-off valve

recommended.

Cold Climates: If you live in an area where it gets below

freezing, it’s best to winterize your system in the fall.

To make it easier to attach the air line to blow out

your system, add a tee in the main supply line (S x S x T)

between the PVB and the valve manifold, screw a cap on

the extra leg.

Typical installation from a faucet

Do it the easy way, use the Toro

Dingo with Trenching Attachment

INSTALL THE IRRIGATION

SYSTEM MAIN LINE

Attach the main sprinkler line to the service line. Run it along

the bottom of the trench from the house to the first set of

valves, and if required, to the second set. Place the valve wires

under the pipe in the bottom of the trench whenever possible.

WORKING WITH PVC PIPE

1. Cut pipe with a PVC pipe cutter.

2. Brush on a primer to clean the pipe

surface and the inside of the fitting.

3. Brush glue on the outside end of

the pipe and lightly inside the fitting.

4. Slip the pipe into the fitting and give it a quarter turn.

5. Hold in place for about 15 seconds so the glue can set.

6. Wipe off excess glue with a rag.

NOTE:

Wait at least one hour before running water through

the system. (Check manufacturer’s recommendation.)

WORKING WITH POLY PIPE

1. Cut pipe with a PVC pipe cutter.

2. Slip a stainless-steel clamp over the end of the pipe.

3. Insert the barbed fitting into the end of the

poly pipe, past the barbs.

4. Slide the clamp over the barbs of the fitting.

5. Tighten the clamp.

TIP:

Save time by using the Toro Self-Tapping Saddle for poly

pipe (80-100 PSI). No more sawing, drilling or gluing! Self-

Tapping Saddles are available at your local home center.

TIP:

To relax poly pipe, expose it to sunlight.

Never expose poly pipe to open flame.

WARNING!

Do not use poly pipe as the connecting pipe

between the service line and the control valves. Surge pressure

may rupture the poly pipe. Be sure to check local codes for correct

type of pipe to use.

MAIN AND LATERAL LINE TRENCHING

The main irrigation line is the pipe that runs from your service

line to your valve manifolds. The lateral lines are the lines that

run from the valve manifolds to the sprinkler heads.

TRENCHING BY HAND

To soften the soil, water the ground approximately two days

before you dig. Dig trenches 8” to 12” inches deep. Put sod on

one side of the trench and soil on the other.

WARNING!

Before digging any trenches, you must have

all underground utilities marked to avoid any damage. Call your local

underground locator service, or the city for information, or dial 811.

TRENCHING USING A TRENCHER

Trenching machines are an easier, faster alternative to digging

with a shovel. They can be rented by the hour, day or week,

usually from a lawn supply store or rental equipment dealer.

The person you rent from can show you how to operate the

machine properly and safely. Trenchers should not be used

to dig through ground cover, flower beds, on steep slopes or

near buildings. Be sure to verify all underground utilities before

trenching.

In colder

climates a

vibratory plow

is used for

pulling pipe.

Self-tapping

Saddle (53686)

C D

STEP 3 - INSTALL IT!

INSTALL IT! - STEP 3

BUILD VALVE MANIFOLDS

A group of valves running off the same supply line is called a

manifold. We recommend grouping your valves into manifolds

based on their use or location. For example, one control valve

manifold to operate front yard zones and one to operate

backyard and/or side yard zones. Use flags to mark the

location of the valves, as indicated on your worksheet.

Refer to the valve inlet size chart on this page

for general valve inlet size rule of thumb.

ANTI-SIPHON VALVE INSTALLATION

Anti-siphon valves are backflow prevention valves designed

to protect your water supply from contamination. Some sort

of backflow prevention is required on every irrigation system,

so you need to check the building codes in your area to find

out if an anti-siphon valve will work for you. These valves are

always installed above ground, so be sure to dig out an area

large enough to accommodate your inlet and outlet pipes.

IN-LINE VALVE INSTALLATION

In-line valves are installed below ground and should always

be installed in a protective valve box. Dig out the area where

in-ground valves are to be installed, and add several inches of

gravel to the bottom of the hole. Place the top of the valve

box so that it is even with the surface of the ground. When

you buy a valve box, be sure to find out how many valves fit

in each box so you know how many to buy. In some cases,

you will need more than one valve box per manifold.

NOTE:

If one of the valves will be used for drip irrigation, leave

enough room between the valve and the sides of the valve box for

the filter and pressure regulator that are part of your drip system.

It may be a good idea to install those parts on the valve, then,

install the valve in the valve box.

TIP:

When putting together your valve manifolds, always

include one or two extra connections in each manifold. This

makes it easier to expand your system at a later date.

TIP:

Look for valves with the flow control feature.

It saves water!

VALVE INLET SIZE

Size of Inlet Gallons Per Minute (GPM)

”

Under 8 GPM

1”

Above 8 GPM

INSTALL YOUR SPRINKLERS

ZONE-BY-ZONE

Install one sprinkler zone at a time, using Toro Funny Pipe

to connect to the lateral lines. Remember to refer to your

planning worksheet.

1. Placing a sprinkler in a trench as a guide, measure from the

connecting pipe fitting to the bottom of the sprinkler and

cut a length of Funny Pipe to fit. Place sprinklers at least 3”

from sidewalks and curbs and 6” from fences and buildings.

2. Install the appropriate Funny Pipe elbow into the

sprinkler and into the PVC or poly pipe fitting.

No glue or clamps needed.

3. Connect the Funny Pipe to the sprinkler

and to the pipe fitting.

NOTE:

Do not use more than 4’ of

Toro Funny Pipe with each sprinkler head.

4. Position the sprinkler in the trench so that the top of the

sprinkler is flush with ground level. Stabilize the sprinkler

with soil without filling the entire trench.

5. Verify that the sprinkler is vertical for optimum performance.

6. Repeat this process for each sprinkler.

FLUSH THE SYSTEM TO CLEAR DEBRIS

After the pipe has been connected and the glue has dried (PVC

pipe only), turn on the water, open valves one zone at a time

and flush until the water runs clear. Seal the fitting with duct

tape to keep dirt out until the sprinklers are installed.

NOTE:

Don’t backfill your trenches until

your final system operation check is complete.

INSTALL LATERAL PIPE

Start from the valves and move outward, laying the connecting

pipe along the bottom of the trench (more than one pipe may

be laid in a trench). At each flag, install a tee or elbow fitting,

and if needed, a riser for sprinkler attachment. We recommend

that you use Toro Funny Pipe

for all your sprinkler head

installations. Refer to the Funny Pipe

section for more

information.

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Pressure Vacuum Breaker

should be installed

12” above the highest

sprinkler, or according to

local codes.

1”

Schedule

40 PVC

1” Schedule

40 PVC

from

water

1” Slip x Slip x

Thread Tee

⁄4” Class

200 PVC

Valve

Box

1” NPT x

⁄

” Slip

Female Adapter

source

TROUBLESHOOTING

Malfunctions aren’t common, but when they occur, they’re often due to one of these causes.

Refer to each product’s speciﬁc operating manual for additional information.

TIMERS

PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION

Watering cycle

repeats

Multiple start times set Check program and turn

off all but one start time

Season adjust is set at

more than 100%

Reset Season Adjust

Fuses blow

regularly

Faulty valve solenoid Replace solenoid

Damaged or shorted

wiring

Inspect and repair wire

Replace timerFaulty timer

LED display is

blank

No power to timer Check outlet for power

Faulty transformer Replace transformer

See above (fuses)

Blown fuse

Lawn is not

watered

Timer is off Turn timer on

Blown fuse See above (fuses)

Damaged timer/valve

wiring

Repair wire

Faulty transformer, timer

or rain sensor device

Replace timer, sensor or

transformer

Program incorrect Check timer program

One zone does

not function

Damaged wiring at timer

or one manifold

Repair wiring

No water to one

or all zones

Damaged wiring at timer

and zone

Repair wire

ROTORS

PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION

Water doesn’t

spray from nozzle

Internal basket screen

plugged with debris

Clean screen

Sprinkler does

not rotate

Not enough water

pressure to rotate

sprinkler

Split zone in two

Debris in sprinkler head Clean debris from

sprinkler

Faulty sprinkler head Replace sprinkler

Sprinkler rotates

in one direction

and stops

Not enough water

pressure to rotate

sprinkler

Split zone in two

Faulty sprinkler head Replace sprinkler

Missing nozzle Replace Nozzle

VALVES

PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION

No water at

sprinkler heads

Main water supply valve

is off

Turn supply valve on

Faulty valve solenoid Replace solenoid

Flow control at valve is

closed

Open fully

counterclockwise

Zone valve wires not

connected

Connect wires

Debris in valve, solenoid

or metering orifice

Disassemble valve and

clean with fresh water

One or more

zones won’t stop

watering

Faulty valve diaphragm Replace diaphragm

Faulty valve Replace valve

Replace valveDamaged or cracked

valve body

Damaged or cracked

bonnet

Replace valve

External water

leaks at valve

Damaged or cracked

pipe and fittings

Check and replace as

needed

Damaged diaphragm Replace diaphragm

Water leaks from

lowest sprinkler

in zone

Debris between

diaphragm and

diaphragm seat

Clear debris from valve

Damaged diaphragm Replace diaphragm

Debris in solenoid Clean solenoid

Faulty solenoid Replace solenoid

Valve manual bleed open Tighten by hand

ALL SPRINKLERS

PROBLEM CAUSE SOLUTION

Sprinklers will not

pop up

Not enough water

pressure to run the zone

Split the zone in two

Master or zone valves not

completely open

Open counterclockwise

Flow control on zone

valve not fully open

Open flow control

Debris between sprinkler

riser and riser seal

Clear debris

Sprinklers

“stick up” after

watering

Damaged riser or riser

seal

Replace sprinkler

Damaged retraction

spring

Replace sprinkler

Open counterclockwiseRadius adjustment screw

turned off

Debris in nozzle Remove debris

Water doesn’t

spray from nozzle

Internal filter clogged Clean screen

Water flooding

from sprinkler

Missing nozzle Install nozzle

Faulty or missing

sprinkler head

Replace sprinkler

CHECK YOUR SYSTEM OPERATION

1. Slowly turn on the water, then

manually open an irrigation valve.

2. Adjust the sprinklers to ensure proper coverage.

(See sprinkler installation instructions for details.)

3. If you don’t have complete head-to-head coverage,

follow the steps below:

a. Make sure the control valve and

shut-off valve are fully open.

b. Turn off any water being used in the house

(washers, showers, faucets, etc.).

c. Fine-tune sprinkler spray positions and spray

patterns to match your coverage area.

If coverage is still not complete, go back and

check your system layout against the plans.

e. When you see that the coverage is satisfactory,

fill in the trench.

4. Once you are satisfied with your installation you

can move on to installing your drip irrigation system.

The following chapter gives detailed instructions

for handling this installation.

CONGRATULATIONS!

When properly installed, your Toro automatic

irrigation system will help keep your landscape green

and healthy for years of recreation and enjoyment.

Display

Programming Dial

Valve W ire Connection s

Tr ansformer

Grease Cap/W ire Connectors

Anti-Siphon Valve

Sprinkler

Pump Start Relay

Power

Supply

Min. 5’

spacing

Timer

Pump

12’

OPTIONAL:

CONNECTING A PUMP START RELAY

If your system will get water from a well, water tank, or pond,

a pump start relay lets you automatically activate the pump if

your water supply requires one. For proper function, the timer

must be installed at least 12 feet from the pump and 5 feet

from the pump starter to prevent malfunctions.

INSTALL YOUR TIMER

1. Install the timer in your garage or another convenient

place. If an outdoor location is desired, use an outdoor

cabinet to protect the timer against the effects of weather.

Make sure an adequate power supply is available. Toro

timers require only a standard outlet. (See instructions

included with the timer for details.)

2. If you haven’t already done so, lay the valve wires

in the bottom of the trenches, beneath the pipes.

TIP:

Installing more wire strands than your system currently

requires can be a real time saver. Adding them now is simple,

adding them later after all the dirt is back in place and the grass

is growing is not.

3. Connect the valves to the timer using the valve wires.

a. Take one wire from each valve and connect them to a

common wire. (For ease of identification, use the white

wire as the common.)

b. At the timer, connect the common wire to the

common terminal on the timer.

c. Take the other wire from each valve and connect

them to the timer terminals in sequence.

4. Plug in the timer.

WARNING!

All outdoor electrical connections must be

waterproofed. Use Toro’s Grease Caps/Waterproof Wire Connectors.

STEP 3 - INSTALL IT!

APPENDIX

Toro 340 MultiStream Sprinklers

are as attractive to watch as they

are effective for watering.

THE RIGHT SPRINKLERS

No matter what your landscape demands,

Toro has the sprinkler family to cover every inch.

TIP:

Select sprinklers with the largest possible radius that is

appropriate and use fewer sprinklers and valves. That means

fewer zones and less trenching.

570

™

SERIES FIXED-SPRAY SPRINKLERS

Radius: 5’-17’

Toro 570™ Series fixed-spray sprinklers

produce a precise, uniform fan of water that’s

ideal for small lawn, shrub and ground cover

areas. Pop-up models disappear when not

in use. Shrub sprays mount above foliage to

water ground cover and shrubs. True matched

precipitation rates and color coding by radius

are just two of the valuable features of

570™ sprinklers and nozzles. Toro has more

than 35 different interchangeable nozzles to

choose from to give you maximum flexibility

and precision.

Perfect for smaller lawn and garden areas.

FLOOD BUBBLER

Radius: 0’-2’

Use the Toro Flood Bubbler for slow, deep

watering around trees, shrubs, vegetable and

flower gardens. Fully adjustable flows from

0 (off) to 2 GPM. Perfect for small groundcover

areas. Toro offers a nozzle model (shown)

and a riser model.

340 MULTISTREAM SPRINKLER

Radius: 15’-33’

Toro’s unique gear-driven 340 MultiStream

sprinklers are recognized by their graceful

“fingers of water.” These slowly rotating

streams are not only attractive; their slower

watering rates minimize run-off. Perfect for

slopes, medium-sized lawns and ground cover.

SINGLESTREAM SPRINKLER

Radius: 34’-48’

Its gear-driven design provides years of smooth,

quiet operation. Perfect for medium-to-large

lawn areas.

SELECT YOUR COMPONENTS

Use the information in this section to help you choose the best

sprinklers and components for your system.

PROSTREAM XL

™

SPRINKLER

Radius: 25’ – 46’

With an adjustable radius for full or part

circle watering, the versatile Toro ProStream XL

works with any 4” or 5” rotor on the market.

Perfect for medium-to-large lawn areas.

SIMPLESET

™

SPRINKLER

Radius: 27’-47’

The Toro SimpleSet™ Lawn Sprinkler offers full

and part-circle operation in a single unit. This

closed-case rotary sprinkler is ideal for large lawn

areas and as its name implies, it is simple to set.

UNIVERSAL IMPACT SPRINKLERS

Radius: 25’-45’

Toro Universal Impact Sprinklers are adjustable

from 20°-340° for part-circle operation or 360°

for full circle operation. They are a great choice

for well and dirty water applications and will

supply years of reliable operation.

Perfect for large lawn areas.

Toro 1" Jar Top Valves

installed in a valve box.

THE RIGHT IRRIGATION VALVES

There are two types of valves: anti-siphon and in-line.

Please check your local codes to determine which is

appropriate in your area.

ANTI-SIPHON VALVES

Anti-siphon valves have backflow prevention devices integrated

into each individual valve to keep the water from the sprinkler

system (and any contaminates) from entering your clean

potable water supply. Anti-siphon valves are always installed

above ground, 6” to 12” above the highest sprinkler or

according to local codes.

IN-LINE VALVES

In-line valves are installed below ground for out-of-sight

operation. When using in-line valves, your system will need to

be protected by an anti-siphon device. Check the local codes.

PRESSURE VACUUM BREAKER (PVB)

A pressure vacuum breaker can be used

with in-line valves to prevent the backflow

of contaminated water into your potable

water supply. Check local codes.

Toro Funny Pipe

is high-strength composite poly-tubing that

solves tough sprinkler installation and replacement problems.

Put simply, Funny Pipe

acts like a flexible extension cord

between the sprinkler line and sprinkler head, allowing you

to easily position sprinklers wherever you need them.

Whether you are installing a new system or replacing an

old sprinkler head, Funny Pipe

can make the job

quick and easy.

NOTE:

Do not use more than 4’ of Toro

Funny Pipe

with each sprinkler head.

Toro Funny Pipe 50’ Roll

Toro Funny Pipe 100’ Roll

Toro Funny Pipe 24” Stick

Toro Funny Pipe

Flex Assemblies

THE RIGHT ACCESSORIES:

TORO FUNNY PIPE

APPENDIX

TORO TIMERS

ECXTRA™ TIMER

Toro ECXTRA Timers are unique irrigation

timers that can be programmed using

your PC and include expansion

capability for control and convenience.

Add a zone to any ECXTRA to expand

capacity up to 10 zones for indoor models

or 12 zones for outdoor models.

Toro offers easy to use Scheduling Advisor Software that will

create a watering program based on your specific landscape

characteristics and geographical region. The Toro Time-Pod

conveniently stores your watering program and transfers the

information to your ECXTRA timer.

Other ECXTRA features include...

• Battery-free Backup Protection, using non-volatile memory

protects your schedule and settings in the event of a power

failure.

• Programmable Pump-Start lets the user adjust the delay

between the irrigation pump start up and irrigation system

activation assuring proper water pressure is always available.

• 365-day Calendar manages even the most complicated

municipal water restrictions.

• Seasonal Adjust feature lets the watering schedule be

adjusted for changes in local weather, without the need

for reprogramming

LAWNMASTER™ II TIMER

The LawnMaster II is a feature rich,

simple to install and program timer

that includes:

• 3 Programs for flexible watering according to plant type

• Pump Start relay port for use with well water systems

• 365 day calendar that enables programming based on

municipal water restrictions

• Seasonal adjust to increase watering during hotter months

and decrease watering in cooler months without having to

reprogram

THE RIGHT TIMERS

You are free to use any irrigation timer you choose with your

system, and mount it almost anywhere.

When choosing a new timer, there are just a few

things to keep in mind while you shop:

1. Can it control all the zones I have now and in the future?

Buy a timer that has at least two more zones than you need.

That way you are ready for future expansion without replacing

the timer.

2. How many different programs should the timer run?

A single program timer is not recommended. It is virtually

impossible to create an efficient watering schedule for even the

smallest lawns with just one watering program.

3. How many start times do I need?

As with programs, having multiple start times allows for more

convenience and efficiency while irrigating. Multiple start times

lets you adjust your watering for soil type and plant needs.

4. Should I use an indoor or an outdoor timer?

This is usually a matter of preference, more than need.

Most timers come in both versions, or can be mounted

in after-market housings for outdoor use.

The ECXTRA™

Finally, Timer Programming Made Simple...

and Smart!

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APPENDIX

HOW MANY SPRINKLERS CAN I USE?

When planning an irrigation system, one of the most important

tasks the designer does is figure out just how many sprinkler

heads can be installed on one zone, given the available water

pressure and flow. If too many sprinklers are installed, then

when they are all running, there may not be enough water

available for them to function correctly. This can also adversely

affect the water pressure inside the house. It is better to design

your zones so that you have some “excess” capacity in them.

Then, if needed, you will be able to add a sprinkler or two later

on without needing to change your zones.

An important factor in this “How Many Sprinklers” equation

is the sprinkler pattern you will use. Are they all 90°

Quarter-Circles? Are they Half-Circles? The truth is you will

usually be using a mixture of different patterns with different

flow requirements. This can make things seem a lot more

complicated when you are trying to add the flow up and

figure out your total per zone.

To help you, we have put together a chart that shows you the

maximum number of sprinklers that you can put on one zone,

if that zone has a certain amount of water pressure and flow.

For example, if you are using 570 spray heads and you have 30

PSI at the head of water pressure to work with (called working

or dynamic pressure), you can see that if your system can

deliver 5 GPM at that pressure you can use a maximum of one

15’ Full-Circle on that zone, but up to 5 Quarter-Circles. The

more flow and pressure you have, the more sprinklers you can

install in any zone.

For the exact flow by sprinkler type, refer to the Sprinkler

Performance Chart on the right.

HOW MANY SPRINKLERS CAN I USE?

Gallons Per Minute (GPM)

5 GPM 8 GPM 12 GPM 15 GPM

570 Series Sprayheads (@ 30 PSI)

15’ Quarter Circle (90°) 5 9 14 17

15’ Half Circle (180°) 3 4 7 9

15’ Full Circle (360°) 1 2 3 4

Single Stream & SimpleSet Rotors (@ 45 PSI)

30° to 120° (1.5 Nozzle) 3 5 8 10

121° to 240° (3.0 Nozzle) 1 2 4 5

241° to 360° (6.0 Nozzle) 0 1 2 2

MultiStream Rotors (@ 35 PSI)

90° 3 5 8 10

135° 2 3 5 6

180° 1 2 3 4

270° 1 1 2 3

360° 0 1 1 2

Universal Impact Rotors (@ 30 PSI)

90° (Orange Nozzle) 3 5 8 10

120° (Red Nozzle) 2 4 6 7

180° (Black Nozzle) 1 2 4 5

270° (Blue Nozzle) 1 2 3 3

360° (Green Nozzle) 0 1 2 2

* pressures are based on working pressure at the head

* all measurements based on Class 200 PVC for all lateral pipes

PSI: Pressure Per Square Inch (Working Pressure)

GPM: Gallons Per Minute

Universal Impact

Sprinkler-40

MODEL # PSI SPACING GPM

53720 40 37’ 2.2

Universal Impact Sprinkler

MODEL # PSI SPACING GPM

53722 40 40’ 4.4

SPECIAL PATTERN

(ORANGE)

PATTERN PSI GPM W x L

30 1.20 9’ x 18’

SIDE STRIP 30 0.90 4’ x 30’

CENTER STRIP 30 0.90 4’ x 30’

END STRIP 30 0.45 4’ x 15’

SimpleSet™

Lawn Sprinkler

MODEL # PATTERN PSI SPACING GPM

53674 90° 40 37’ 1.5

180° 40 40’ 2.5

360° 40 37’ 5.0

ADJUSTABLE FLOOD BUBBLER

MODEL # PATTERN FLOW

53692 360° 0-2.0

GPM

570

PC ADJUSTABLE BUBBLER NOZZLE

MODEL # PATTERN FLOW

53786 360° 0-2.0

GPM

MODEL # PSI SPACING GPM NOZZLE PATTERN

53721 40 35’ 1.8 Orange 90°

37’ 2.2 Red 120°

39’ 3.6 Black 180°

41’ 4.2 Blue 270°

43’ 6.5 Green 360°

Universal Impact

Sprinkler-45

SPRINKLER PERFORMANCE CHARTS

570™ Series Nozzles

5’ SERIES WITH 0° TRAJECTORY

(RED)

PATTERN PSI GPM RADIUS

90° 30 0.09 5’

180° 30 0.19 5’

360° 30 0.38 5’

SPACING

MODEL # PRESSURE 18 FT. 26 FT. 33 FT.

53757 (Lawn), 50 PSI 3.7 GPM 5.6 GPM 7.5 GPM

53758 (Shrub),

53759 (High-Pop)

Note: The water flow in GPM (Gallons Per Minute) is based on a

full circle (360°) spray pattern. The flow will vary depending on the

spray pattern used. For example, the flow through a 180° pattern

is about half of a 360° pattern, and a 90° pattern has roughly one

quarter the flow of a 360° pattern.

340 MultiStream Sprinkler

– based on full circle spray Pattern

STD. MODEL- 45 PSI

NOZZLE PATTERN FLOW - SPACING

Orange 53739 - 90° 1.0 GPM - 40’

Black 53738 - 180° 3.0 GPM - 41’

Green 53737 - 360° 6.0 GPM - 43’

Black 53715 - Adj.* 3.0 GPM - 41’

*Orange and green nozzles included 3.0 GPM

installed and set to 180°

SingleStream Sprinkler

8’ SERIES WITH 5° TRAJECTORY

(GREEN)

PATTERN PSI GPM RADIUS

90° 30 0.24 8’

180° 30 0.50 8’

360° 30 1.00 8’

0-360° 30 3.2 9’

10’ SERIES WITH 12° TRAJECTORY

(BLUE)

PATTERN PSI GPM RADIUS

90° 30 0.40 10’

180° 30 0.71 10’

360° 30 1.49 10’

0-360° 30 3.9 11’

12’ SERIES WITH 23° TRAJECTORY

(BROWN)

PATTERN PSI GPM RADIUS

90° 30 0.50 12’

180° 30 1.09 12’

360° 30 2.19 12’

0-360° 30 3.22 12’

15’ SERIES WITH 27° TRAJECTORY

(BLACK)

PATTERN PSI GPM RADIUS

90° 30 0.85 15’

180° 30 1.65 15’

360° 30 3.60 15’

0-360° 30 3.82 13’

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

SYSTEM DESIGN

Q: How do I get started?

A: You can design your system yourself or take advantage

of the Toro Design Service. In either case, you will

need some basic information (see pages 1-8).

Q: How long will it take to install my system?

A: After you have your completed design and have parts

in-hand, it will take an average* of 2-3 days (about

1-2 weekends). *(Average home lot size of ¼ acre)

Q: If I have my plans prepared, how

quickly will I get my design?

A: It will take approximately 2 weeks to get your design

back. Or for the cost of shipping, you can have

your plans sent 2 Day Express (call 800-891-0742).

You can check the status of your design, view

and print your plans at www.torodesign.com

Q: How much will it cost for my sprinkler system?

A: If you have a professional contractor install your system, you

can expect to pay at least 2-3 times more than if you do it

yourself. Typical cost for doing it yourself may be between

$800 and $1,600*. Every home is different.

*(Average home lot size of ¼ acre)

INSTALLATION

Q: How far apart do I space the sprinklers?

A: To ensure proper watering of your lawn, water spray

from one sprinkler head must reach the next sprinkler

head (head-to-head coverage). If you space heads too far

apart and do not have head-to-head coverage, you will

end up with brown spots (dying grass) (see page 7).

Q: Can I mix different heads on the

same zone (same valve)?

A: No. You should avoid mixing small and large area sprinklers

on the same zone because they have different watering

amounts and will cause over and under watering.

Q: How many sprinklers can I put on one zone (one valve)?

A: Your water pressure and water flow will determine the

maximum number of heads that can be used. Too many

heads on a zone will create low pressure in your system and

will cause the heads to work improperly (see page 27).

Q: What type of pipe should I use to connect the system?

A: You can use either Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) or

Polyethylene (Poly) Pipe. In freezing climate areas, you

will generally use Poly Pipe. Consult your local codes to

find out what’s required in your area (see page 11).

Q: How do I install drip or micro-irrigation?

A: You will start by connecting to the water source. In addition

to the valve, Drip or micro-irrigation requires a filter and

pressure regulator to protect the small emitters (drippers).

Then you connect the ½” Drip Tubing. Next you decide on

the best method to water your plants. Refer to Toro’s Blue

Stripe Drip Planning & Installation Guide for more details.

VALVES

Q: How do I hook up my valves?

A: Valves connect to your timer with simple wiring. Each

valve has 2 wires; choose 1 as the zone wire, and the white

wire as the Common wire. Use 18-gauge multi-strand wire

if the distance between the timer and valve is 1000 feet

or less (Refer to the chart below on this page for longer

distances). Always use more strands than you need for

future expansion. (Wire sold separately.) (see page 14)

Q: When I connect my valves to PVC, do I use glue?

A: Most valves will connect to the sprinkler system with a

PVC connector with male threads. Simply screw the male

connector into the valve. Use primer to prepare the pipe

and fitting, then glue the other end of the PVC connector

to the rest of the pipe flowing to your system (see page 11).

Q: How many valves will I need?

A: You need 1 valve for each zone.

Q: How do I determine what type of valve I need?

A: Local water regulations determine the type of valve

you need. Call your local water company to determine

what is required in your area (see page 12).

TIMERS

Q: How do I hook up my timer?

A: Your timer connects your valves with simple wiring

connections. From your timer, you will have 1 common

wire (white) that will link all valves together, and 1

colored wire for each individual valve (see page 14).

Q: How do I determine what type of timer I need?

A: There are four factors to consider:

1: How many zones (valves) you have.

(Hint: always leave room for expanding

your system as your landscape expands).

2: How many programs or watering schedules you need.

Simple timers have one or two programs. For the most

efficient watering, select a timer with 3 programs.

3: How many start times do you need?

Select a timer with 3 or more start times.

4 : Location of the timer: select indoor or outdoor.

Consider the ECXTRA™ with the ability to be

programmed using a home computer (see page 25).

TIMER TO VALVE

WIRE SIZING CHART

Gauge Maximum Distance

18 1000 ft

14 1450 ft

10 1750 ft

6 1930 ft

The tips listed below will help you get the most from your new Toro irrigation system. Please pay

special attention to the water conservation tips. Conserving water is not only the right thing to do

for the planet; it is also the right thing to do for your budget.

WATER CONSERVATION

• Always use “head-to-head coverage” in your irrigation

system.

• Keep the soil consistently moist but not wet. This eliminates

runoff, and ensures your plants a steady supply of water.

• Do not water at night - water will sit on the lawn and may

cause disease.

• Water in the early morning - evaporation is minimized and

the lawn utilizes the most water.

• Do not water midday – evaporative loss is at its greatest.

• Create multiple programs for your irrigation system – this

allows you to water most efficiently.

• Install a rain sensor – it will prevent the system from

running during rain.

• Use drip irrigation in flower beds - it saves substantial

amounts of water.

• Reduce run times for zones in the shade.

• Allow grass to grow before mowing -

this reduces

water usage.

• Practice “grass cycling”- this reduces evaporative water loss

from the lawn, while reducing the need for fertilizer.

• Sharpen your mower blade - sharp blades are easier on the

grass and save water.

• De-thatch your lawn - water will get to the roots faster and

evaporate less.

• Aerate your lawn - it prevents soil compaction and allows

water to soak in faster.

• Keep plants with different watering needs on different zones

– trees vs. lawn, etc.

• Plant native species - native plants do better and need less

special care than exotics.

• Mulch flowerbeds and trees - it reduces evaporation and

controls weeds.

• Know your soil type - the three basic types: sand, loam, and

clay require different watering schedules for optimal results.

By implementing these conservation tips,

your water use can be cut dramatically.

WATER SCHEDULING

For best results, create a weekly watering schedule. Figure out

your total weekly watering needs (run times). Divide those

runtimes into watering days, and if your timer supports multiple

start times, by that number.

For example, if the weekly watering requirement for one zone is

65 minutes a week, you would water 9-10 minutes every day or

16-17 minutes every other day. It is better to water for shorter

periods, but to do it more often. This allows the moisture level

in the soil to remain constant. Also, consider the type of soil

you are watering. If you have sandy soil, longer runtimes may

be better, whereas with clay soils, you will need to apply water

more slowly and use more start times.

The key is building the most flexibility into your system possible,

and using that flexibility to create the most precise schedule you

can. Precision equals performance and water savings.

WINTERIZATION PROCEDURES

FOR COLD CLIMATES

The water supply should be turned off at the main valve and

the irrigation timer should be set to the “Rain” or “Off” setting.

Each valve should be turned on manually to release pressure

and water in the pipes. This is done to protect any components

that could freeze.

Your irrigation system may have manual or automatic drain

valves that need to be opened for proper drainage, make sure

the drain valve is pointing downward to facilitate flow or the

system will have to be blown out using compressed air.

Do not exceed 50 PSI of air pressure.

WARNING!

We recommend hiring a professional when

winterizing with compressed air.

* Follow the recommended winterization instructions included

with your sprinkler timer.

INSTALL A RAIN SENSOR

A rain sensor saves water by shutting

down your irrigation system temporarily

when it rains without erasing your

programs. It is easy to attach to

roof eaves.

INSTALL DRIP-IRRIGATION

Install a Drip-Irrigation system using Toro’s

Blue Stripe

Drip Products to save time,

money and water. Refer to pages Toro’s

Blue Stripe Drip Planning & Installation

Guide for more information.

TIPS

The Toro Company

8111 Lyndale Avenue South

Bloomington, Minnesota 55420

Toro Helpline: 800-367-8676

Toro Web site: www.toro.com

Model # 53655